Improvement in sewing-machines for embroidering



2 Sheets-Sheet 1. A. BONNAZ. SEWING MACHINE FOR EMBROIDERING.

Patented New 10, 1868.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

A. BONNAZ. SEWING MACHINE FOR EMBROIDERING.

No. 83,910. Patented Nov. 10, 1868.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ANTOINE BONNAZ, or PARIS, FRANCE, ASSIGNOR r0 EMILE consent, or SAMEPLACE.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-.MACHINES FOR EMBROIDERING.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 83,910, dated November10,1868.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ANTOINE BONNAZ, of Paris, in the Empire of France,have invented certain new and useful Improvements inEmbroidery-Machines; and I do hereby declare that the following is afull, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation ofthe same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which-Figure 1 represents an end view of the machine. Fig. 2 represents a sideview thereof. Fig. 4 represents a plan of those parts of the machinewhich are below its platform. Figs. 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12represent detached views, hereinafter to be-referred to.

The like parts of the machine are denoted on the several figures bysimilar letters.

In making embroidery-work on a sewing or embroidery machine the greatdifficulty beams that on making rounds or other intricate designs theentire cloth has to be turned constantly in conformity with the designto be made, and for this reason that description of embroidery-work isnot only difiicult to be executed, but can be made with a very moderatedegree of speed only. To avoid this difficulty, I have combined theseveral working parts 'of an embroidery-machine in such a manner that auniversahfeed motion causes the cloth to move in any direction desired,and that the hooks or needles which make the stitch move in combinationwith said feed-ma tion, so as not to change their relative positions toeach other, and thus embroidery-work of the most intricate design can bemade at any desired speed, and without turning the cloth.

To the better understanding of the machine I will first explain themanner in which the stitch is made, I employ a hooked needle, 0,(represented at Fig. 3,) such as is employed in making crochet-work, andsaid hook is secured to the needlebar A, and has a verticalreciprocating motion imparted to it, and in piercing the cloth a, whichis supported by the cloth-plate b, the needle-hook 0 takes the threadbeneath the cloth-plate, draws it up through the cloth, holds the threadwhile the feed-motion takes place, and then returns downward to make thesucceeding stitch. To accomplish this operation it is necessary that thethread below the cloth-plate should, at each descending motion of thenee die-hook 0,-be presented to the latter in such a manner that it 'canpull up said thread, or else the machine will make drop --stitches. Thisoperation of presenting the thread to the hook c is eii'ected by meansof an oscillating looper, B, which, by means of a projection, 1, takeshold of the thread, and when the needle 0 has arrived at its lowestposition, the looper B makes a turn of about two hundred and seventydegrees of a circle, and lays the thread around the needle, which, onrising, takes infallibly hold of the thread. It is further necessarythat, when the needle-hook c rises, the cloth should be firmly held downupon the cloth-plate, so as to prevent the hook c from pulling it up.This is ciiected by means of a small tube or nipple, d, which surroundsthe needle. While the needle c rises the nipple dremains stationaryuntil the needle 0 has cleared the cloth, after which the nipple drises, so that the feed of the cloth can take place.

The feed is eii'ected by means of the feedsurface 6, which hasacircular-ring shape, and which surrounds the needle and its nipple d.The feed-surface has a vibratory horizontal as well as avertical motion,as that of an ordinary sewing-machine, besides its universal-feedmotion, hereinafter to be described.

To enable an easier and better understandin g of my machine, I willdescribe the modus operamli of the above elements when the machine workson straight lines only, and add to it afterward the operation of saidparts when the machine runs on curved lines, and for producing sharpangular work.

C represents the driving-wheel of the machine. It is secured to a hollowshaft, l l,pro

vided with a coupling-disk, h, and which, by means of the coupling-pinf, drives the shaft 1). The latter turns an eccentric, 9, whose pin aenters into the cam-groove b of the needle-bar driver h, which,holdingtheneedleupon the lever 01, whose pin e operates the needle-piececarrier H to-raise the nipple d,

while the spring I presses it downward upon the cloth-plate, when thecam c releases the lever d The eccentric-disk K imparts. a vibratingmotion to the rod L andto the lever M, which needle-hook c.

. The vertical motion of the feed-surface e is efiected by means of acam, f, on shaft D, which, acting upon the lever g, the latter raisesthe bar 0, to which the feed-bar O is secured, by means of a universaljoint, 6 and 7. When the action of cam f ceases, the spring P causes thebars 0 and O, and consequently the feed-surfaces e, to descend down uponthe cloth-plate.

Thehorizontal action of the feed-surface is efiected in the followingmanner: The cam f of the shaft B acts upon the lever h, and the latterupon the pin 1" of the rod Q. A nut or sleeve, R, is secured to theshaft G, and has a cam-groove o, in which the end of the small lever msli es. When the sleeve R descends, its cam-groove acts upon the upperend of the lever m, and the lower end p-' of said lever imparts ahorizontal movement to the nut m which is adjusted within the circularcollar n, and which latter is secured to the feed-bar 0. It thus impartsto the latter and to the feed-surface e the horizontalfeed motion.

As the nut m is adjusted upon the square part of the sleeve B, it willforcibly turn therewith, and within its collar 'n as the sleeve R isturned, and thus the direction of the feed is changed, according to theposition which 'is given to the sleeve R.

Having thus described the operation of the several parts of the machinefor sewing straight lines, it is to be shown in what manner any designof curved lines can be exeouted without turning the cloth, which is theessential feature of this machine.

The feed-bar O is pivoted to a verticallysliding bar, 0, by means of adouble hinge, 6 and 7, constituting a universal joint.

S represents a crank, beneath the platform of the machine, whose shaftis supported by a bracket, T.

A bevel-pinion, r, transmits motion to a pinion, s, and to thetransversal shaft t, whose other end is geared to the pinion u by meansof the pinion c.

' The pinions u and a; are secured to a sleeve, w, which latter isconnected with the rod N- by. means of a tongue and groove, so that therod N can slide longitudinally within the sleeve w, but will turn by theaction of pinion u.

Pinion x is geared to pinion g on the "ertical shaft a, which lattercarries, at its up per end, pinion U, gearing into pinion V on thehorizontal shaft W, which, at its end, carries the pinion Y, gearinginto pinion Z of the needle-bar carrier G.

By turning the crank S, a combined turning movement will be given to thelooper B, to the needle-bar carrier G, andto the camgrooved sleeve It,which controls the feedmotion, and thus the three elements of themachine can be turned in combination without changing their relativepositions toward each other.

I have thus established the means of producing a universal-feed motion,and by it any design, no matter how complicated, can be embroideredwithout turning the cloth, but by simply directing its motion by turningthe crank S.

In making complicated embroidery-work,

and. chiefly in embroidering letters, it fre-- quentlyoccurs that sharpangles have to be produced. This can only be made by arresting themotion of the machine instantaneously, by suddenly turning the crank Sthe desired angle, and then by again starting the machine.

To effect this in an easy and effective manner', I have organizedt-hefollowing coupiingdevice: On workingthe machine, two treadles areapplied to it 'stand, one for each foot. By means of the right-handtreadle the flywheel is turned, whose strap passes in andaround thegroove of the wheel 0, and said wheel therefore rotates constantly. Theleft hand treadle is connected, by means of a rod, A, to the end of thelever B, which is pivotcd to a horizontal shaft, 0. The end of the leverB is pivoted to the vertical rod D, which slides within the block E.

When the lever B is raised up, by acting upon the treadle of the rod'A,the rod D is drawn downward, and the pin 8 on said rod presses'downwardthe pawl F, which is act-1iated by the spring 9, and in that positionthe machine operates as above described, the clutch-pin f, Figs 2, beingwithin the recess of the disk F, secured to the wheel 0 but as soon asthe treadle connected to rod A 1s released, its balanced weight, inconjunction with the action of the spring 9, causes the lever B todescend, throws upward the pawl F, and the latter engages and holds theend of the lever G. I

The end '12 of the lever G, which carries a friotion-pulley, gliding inthe cam-groove 1,3 of piece K, causes the latter to slide longitudinallyon shaft D, and draws the pin f out of its recess in the disk 15, andthus instan taneously uncouples the machine, throwlng the parts into theposition represented at Fig. '12, while, during the same time, the wheel0 has been turning andcontinues toturn. When the machine is thusuncoupled, the crank S is jointedf feed-bar O, as herein shown and liescribed, and the horizontal looper-shaft B, connected by means of thegearings Z Y, sha-ft W, gearing V U, shaft 2, gearings y w,

shaft N, and endless screws Z is, substantially in the manner and forthe purposes described.

2. The mechanism herein described for connecting the shafts E 1),consisting substantially of disk 1 cam-grooved disk K, lever -Gr,spring-pawl F, rod 1), and lever 13, substantially as and for thepurposes described.

BONNAZ.

Witnesses:

F. OLcoTr, DAVID T. S, FULLER.

